For the last few years, food courts have been conquering Europe. An American invention that was once identified with fast food joints in shopping malls, food courts have been updated by Europe with the vibe of community culture, providing fun ways to grab fast and tasty meals at an affordable price while rubbing shoulders with locals in a casual, festive atmosphere.
While you may associate Paris with fine dining and waiter service, food courts, or “food halls,” are making a splash in the French capital, where, like everywhere, the cost of living has increased and working folks are on the lookout for good, affordable meals that don’t require hours to eat.
The rise of food halls in Europe is good news for tourists. Offerings in Parisian food courts reflect the city’s increasingly diverse population and a growing curiosity about foreign cuisines: There are French basics, of course, like crêpes and rotisserie chicken, as well as the occasional wine bar. But you can also find thoughtfully prepared Algerian couscous, Japanese sushi, and Peruvian ceviche, as well as inventive riffs on Asian street food and American burgers. And at Paris’ food halls, reservations aren’t required, the dress code is casual, and a main course will rarely set you back more than €15–20 (US $16–22)—or often for less.
At the following food halls in Paris, each distinguished by its own form and flavors, try to avoid the lunch rush, which generally falls between 12:30 and 1:30pm, so you won’t get stuck in lines. Also come prepared with the understanding that the French definition of a “line” can be rather fluid—despite chaotic appearances, everyone gets served in order.
Beaupassage
For a more classic restaurant vibe, Bistrot du Passage has full service and a killer wine list, or the splurge-worthy Pierre Hermé Café, where you can finish your meal with his famous Ispahan, a macaron-like pastry made with rose, raspberry, and lychee. Finally, if you are disappointed with the limited coffee options in Parisian cafés, try Certified, a NYC-style expert java spot with a wider range of preparations and access to oat milk.
14 Boulevard Raspail (other entrances at 53-57 rue de Grenelle and 83 rue du Bac), 7th arrondissement
Credit: Lisa Klein Michel
Lafayette Gourmet
Options (partly pictured above) include unbearably light and crispy fried chicken with peanut sauce at Mosugo by young rising star Mory Sacko, Peruvian delicacies like lomo saltado and ahi de gallina at Yora by Peruvian maestro José Arias, and inventive twists on the traditional Provençal full-meal-in-a-sandwich pain bagnat at the Mediterranean-themed Bagnard, by the talented Yoni Saada. Primarily a lunch option, you could also come here for an early dinner as most restaurants stay open until around 9pm, 8pm on Sundays.
35 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th arrondissement
Marché Saint Quentin
A personal favorite is Oh Africa!, which serves delicious dishes like poulet yassa, a West African chicken stew with onions, lemons, and olives, and maffé, or stewed beef with peanut sauce. However, there are plenty of other good stands, like Ti Caz, which serves creole cuisine from the French island of La Réunion, La Bahianaise, which offers generous portions of Brazilian feijoada, a slow-cooked bean stew, as well as French options like Un Poisson en Ville, a fishmonger/oyster bar where you don’t have to worry if the oysters are fresh. Its seasonal dishes include seafood stews and steamed mussels. Meat lovers will appreciate Boucherie Constantin and its bar à viande (meat bar), while Pardi! has burgers, salads, and a plat du jour (daily special) as well as a nice selection of wines by the glass. Your best bet is lunch at this 19th century cast-iron market hall; while some stands stay open until 8pm, others close earlier and on Sundays the whole market closes at 1:30pm. Note that the market is also closed all day Monday.
85 bis Bouelvard Magenta, 10th arrondissement
Ground Control | Credit: Georges Saillard
Ground Control
One of the best vendors is Burning Naan, which offers accessible Indian food: naan wraps, samosas, and biryanis. Kalimera serves “extra virgin Greek food,” i.e., souvlaki pitas, hummus, tzatziki, and other Greek mezzes. La Résidence is part of a solidarity project; it is staffed by refugee cooks-in-training, who have brought their culinary traditions with them: Nigerian chicken suya sandwiches, Côte d’Ivoire attiéké salad, Syrian falafel, etc. The hours reflect the spirit of the place: closed Mondays and Tuesdays, but for the rest of the week it opens at noon and closes from 10:30pm to 1am, depending on the night. Check the website for updated hours and for the event schedule.
81 rue du Charolais, 12th arrondissement
La Felicità | Credit: Joann Pai
La Felicità
The entire operation is part of Big Mamma, a wildly successful group of Italian restaurants started by two French business school graduates, but the décor alone, a bold design statement, is its own reason to visit. Do not miss the restrooms—each stall has a different theme: a pink womb, geometric icicles, neon lights. Nightlife seekers will appreciate the evening event schedule, which includes concerts and dance parties, from salsa to swing to rock.
5 parvis Alan Turing, 13th arrondissement
Métro: Chevaleret or Bibliothèque François Mitterrand