A trip to Egypt — the first my brother and I took as adults with our parents — quickly went off the rails. After spending Christmas in the Sinai Peninsula, we drove our rental car back to Cairo. At the hotel, a well-dressed man, whom my father mistook for a hotel valet, offered to move…
Waqra Pukará means "horned fortress" in Quechua, and the name couldn’t be more fitting. Two stone spires tower over the end of a ridge, giving it natural horns. Built high on a promontory, it looks down a canyon far grander than the narrow valley that you'd see beneath Machu Picchu. Here, the Apurímac River…